Thats what I figured. It seemed right. Obviously it has to be from a carbed motor because if it's EFI, it uses a computer to set the advance curve, not a mechanical/vacuum advance unit...right?
Nope, it doesn't have to be from a carbed engine. The XS motor already has a mechanical advance so the only distributor parts you are using is the pickup and reluctor. Fuelie distributors often have multiple pickups in them which is good because the pickups are small and you will have spare parts. I've seen Mazda distributors that have three small pickups, perfect for a swap like this.
The reluctor doesn't have to come from the same distributor as the pickup. Any hunk of steel on the end of the advance shaft, with two teeth 180° apart, should work. The faster it passes the pickup, the stronger the signal will be so try to make it as big around as possible. The pointier the teeth are, the more accurate it will be but less mass will mean a weaker signal. The face of the teeth is usually tall and skinny so it will make a strong signal and still be accurate. Basically, just match the size and shape of the teeth to the center pole of the pickup. Also get it as close to the pickup as possible. The closer it is, the stronger the signal will be.
mrriggs, a couple things, 1 you have some great information, long before I found this site I saw gofastforless.com and used some of your tricks on my bike and it worked great. 2 forgive me if you've already addressed this issue but why are there 2 reluctor teeth left? It seems to me that 1 would do the job very well, considering that it's a 360 crank, you need 2 points because there are 2 coils 1 for each cylinder, but with this set up both plugs would be firing at the top and the bottom of the stroke. It just seems needless and i was wondering if there was something I was missing. 3) I went out and got a coil from the auto zone but didn't get the igniter unit, there are two slots on the back for spade connectors, how do I tell which is which? Once again thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge freely, you have my vote for canonization
...forgive me if you've already addressed this issue but why are there 2 reluctor teeth left? It seems to me that 1 would do the job very well, considering that it's a 360 crank, you need 2 points because there are 2 coils 1 for each cylinder, but with this set up both plugs would be firing at the top and the bottom of the stroke. It just seems needless and i was wondering if there was something I was missing.
The reluctor is mounted to the camshaft, which turns half as many times as the crank, so each tooth represents TDC on the crank.
3) I went out and got a coil from the auto zone but didn't get the igniter unit, there are two slots on the back for spade connectors, how do I tell which is which?
On a dual output coil there is no positive or negative so you can hook the wire to whichever pin you want. The connectors are deep inside those little slots so you won't be able to use standard crimp-on terminals to plug into them. I suggest you get some copper sheet as thick as the slot. Then cut strips as wide as the slot and as long as they need to be to go all the way into the coil, bend over and stick out past the mounting surface. Then you could plug onto them with a female quick disconnect. Just be sure to put a piece of plastic down before bolting down the coil to prevent the leads from shorting out.
derr, I guess I was thinking about my old cb 750, the points were directly off the crank and there were 2 of them for 4 cylinders. Makes sense, nice tip on the copper two, I have a bit lying about at the bakery.
and billybadass, I'm not sure what you're saying here but the "F" mark is the Full advance last time I checked and the weights have to be out to time it to that mark
Post by billybadass on Sept 2, 2008 15:21:24 GMT -5
You sure about that? I thought "F" meant "Fire"...But I digress. I found this on a sister site.
The mark at number 4 above is the TDC (top dead center) timing mark that is in the center of a small square recess in the stator that is bolted and keyed to the left end of the crankshaft. Set that rotor TDC mark (#4) to line up with the line at # 3 above. Number 3 is the total lead mark where the timing is set. All you do is turn the crank with a 17mm socket to line up #3 and #4 above, and set the white dot on either magnet in the previous image above this one at the red arrow in the timing index hole and that's it. You can check the timing with a timing light later if you like, or advance or retard it to your liking. Number 2 was used for setting the points, and number 1 indicates when the pistons are at top dead center.
This prob explains why I'm such an idiot and can't seems to work on my own bike!!
Post by billybadass on Sept 2, 2008 18:30:57 GMT -5
Ok, now I'm the one who's confused...my mod fires the plugs just fine when they are laying outside the jugs...i see spark and everything...so what marks should I time it to? I've tried the first hash, the "F" mark, held the weights out...just about everything.
Being so busy, I've yet to tear into another distributor and replace the part I castrated, but I have been able to get it to idle from time to time (kick only bike get's me tired). When I tried to rev it up though, it dies. Replaced the mech advance...same thing!
Gotta get into that other distributor and replace that dang part...prob solve all my problems.
To time it I put the crank on the full advance mark then held the advance weights out, turned the reluctor until one of the teeth lined up perfectly with the pickup, then tightend the nut.
Mrriggs, why did you time it using this method instead of simply using the "F" mark?
That is the method I used to position the reluctor on the advance shaft and set static timing for the initial firing. When the motor is running you can fine tune it with a timing light by turning the "breaker" plate.
Yes I found out my blunder shortly after I posted, and issued my retraction. I was confussing it with anouther bike, anouther time, maybe even made it up, couldn't say. I did tell him he was right and the F stands for "F"ull retard (more generally idle). I prostrate myself for forgiveness and pray that the lives I touched can be repaired.
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5