No I haven't even put it togather yet, maybe this weekend. I've been busy getting new carpet throughout the house and now I've got a week long business trip coming up week after next. The garage is full of furniture so very little room to build it right now. Greg
I have one. So far it works great - yeah it isn't super fast but @ 3 in the morning it gets work done. Not as good as the one I used at Western Auto - but it will suffice. Make sure that you spend a few dollars and get "drop anchor concrete bolts." I still change my cycle tires by hand on an old plastic walk on industrial trigger mat. Stil wood wedge nicely break the bead. Spring steel brake hardware from railroad car are my tire "irons," & cut up plastic from milk jugs protect my rims. Looks kooky but works. I was raised on a farm years ago - we make the buffalo grunt.
i have used a large c-clamp to break beads, not fast but works, works to push brake caliper pistons in when changing pads. most any leaf spring leaves will work for tire irons, just narrow them for the first few inches. i have been thinking of a way to hold the wheel up at a good hieght and keep it from turning. a frame with a long bolt to slide wheel down over,then a large washer and wing nut for hold down. maybe a couple padded pins to put against the rim between spokes, adjustable to match wheel size. i'm still planning
75 XS650B with 79 forks and dual disc, braided lines, disc brake on back, Pamco ignition, Pamcopete's reg/rec mods, kill switch relay, home made harness, all LED turn, brake and tail lights, tapered head bearings, bronze bushes in swing arm, soon to get shock and fork upgrades
I'm putting the finishing touches on my HF motorcycle tire changer now. I wanted to do things as cheap as possible so I bought only the top part, the motorcycle attachment, and built my own base. This means I didn't get the long pry bar either so I had to make one of those as well. From my research on the web, I found that many who get the complete HF set-up end up buying another motorcycle specific pry bar anyway. Problem is, they cost like $99. Well, I found a place that sells just the replacement plastic ends for their bar. I got a set of them for $18.95 and built a bar to use them .....
The HF changer has some short comings and works better with a few modifications. The clamping blocks have a very small groove for the rim and while they'll fit the spoked alloy rim, a mag or a more modern wheel may not go in it. Also, it would be nice to have some extra space to place rubber padding in so the rim is not marred. I found this PDF doc on-line that outlines a fix for the blocks .....
I made my own out of some 1/4" steel plate with some bent plate welded to the top for the rim to fit into. I use lengths of 3/8" fuel line split down the side and slipped over the rim edge to protect it. I'll get some pics up with some more info soon.
I have a little "platform" made up of a double layer of 2x6s nailed together in a square to lay tires/wheels on when I work on them. The double thickness and open center allows the disc or sprocket on the wheel to stick down in but not rub on the ground. This was a big improvement over just laying the wheel on a couple loose 2x4s or 4x4s but still, I was working on my knees on the ground. So I decided to build a little table to hold this thing .....
The screw on the aluminum spinner knob sticks into the side of the 2x6 about an inch to hold it down into the angle frame. Then I got the idea of using this table as the base for a HF motorcycle tire attachment. I needed to add a shelf with a tube in the center. That tube needed to be low enough so I could still set wheels on the 2x6 frame to work on them .....
This meant a second tube was needed to slip on the 1st and bring the height up so the tire changer attachment could be fitted. This had to be easy on and off so the table could still be used for wheel work. Pinning the 2nd tube to the 1st with a hitch pin solved that problem .....
The tire changer then slips over the second pipe. It is secured by a locating "pin" on that second pipe and a thumb wheel on the side of the changer .....
The big issue with these changers is keeping them secured while using them. I didn't have a place I could bolt it down so needed another way to hold it steady while in use. I put strips of steel plate with a bent up lip between the legs at floor level and simply stand on them while using the changer .....
Pieces of that same bent plate were used as a basis for my larger clamping blocks which just bolt to the originals. They're big enough to allow rubber padding on the rim .....
All that was left was to make the mount/dismount bar. So far, it's worked very well for dismounting (the peg shaped end) but I still haven't gotten the hang of the mounting part yet. Then I watched some of the videos on the No-Mar site .....
They've added a "T" handle to their bar recently and claim it makes mounting 200% easier. Also, it seems my technique was a little off as well. They say you should pull the bar for dismounting (which I was and it worked well) but push it with your hip while pulling on the "T" handle for mounting. The guy in the video says about 60% of the mounting operation is done by pulling on the "T" handle and 40% by pushing with your hip. So I've made up a "T" handle for my bar. I haven't had a chance to try it yet but I think it just might be the missing ingredient here .....
The final step is a good lube for the tire. For years I just used a mix of dish washing soap and water. I knew there were real lubes for tire changing but the ones I had previously run across were quite expensive. In my recent research though, I ran across this Ru-GLYDE stuff, available at NAPA and quite reasonably priced. A whole gallon was $14 but that's more than a lifetime supply and it does work very well .....
Well, I finally sorted the mounting end of my bar. I was never able to find a good picture of that end but finally did .....
I didn't angle the end of the square tube on mine when I originally made it and that was the problem .....
The bar kept popping out and basically didn't work. So, a little modding to the end of my bar, angling the square tube portion back .....
..... and it mounts tires like a charm now .....
Cutting the square tube back and at an angle allows the bead of the tire to ride up over the mounting angle part and hold it in place. That was the "secret" and so like I said, now the bar mounts tires as well as it dismounts them.
r80rt: :)This is a splendid write up, THANK YOU!!!!
Dec 26, 2015 16:54:05 GMT -5
mashermoto: What the what is this shoutbox for? Or should I shout, WHAT THE WHAT IS THIS SHOUTBOX FOR!
May 12, 2016 22:22:21 GMT -5
motormike: Good Day ...just a FYI.. Wild Cat is this Labor Day weekend. Still go'n on. A few 650's still make the scene. Various rides at different skill levels each day.. awards dinner sunday eve. BS in the park'n lot after dinner.
Aug 23, 2016 7:57:01 GMT -5
lsettle: First post in over 6 years!
Aug 28, 2016 19:45:17 GMT -5
kardon: Wow quiet here, where did they all go.
Oct 7, 2016 2:18:13 GMT -5
gggGary: XS650.com LOL
Feb 16, 2017 20:49:02 GMT -5
buell88: Anybody have any idea who built the xs650 tracker used in the Draggin Jeans Ad on Pipeburn?
May 16, 2017 16:24:09 GMT -5
joshua: The regulator/rectifier unit I got from Mikes PMA has closer hole spacing than original. Are we supposed to mill the holes to fit?
Jun 7, 2017 19:25:58 GMT -5
joshua: My bad. I found the bracket they supplied to mount the rectifier/regulator... Uh oh. How is this meant to work? Which way is it meant to mount? Looks like I have to use some spacers or something. Good instructions would be nice.
Jun 7, 2017 22:09:52 GMT -5
craig8johnson: Not sure if this is the right spot or not but oh well...
Jul 11, 2017 18:04:15 GMT -5
craig8johnson: I'm checking the charging system. I'm afraid I might have fried the last battery. With the solid state regulator (after market) what should it be charging at. The book says, I think, 15 volts. I'm hitting 17 when revved. Is that too high?
Jul 11, 2017 18:06:19 GMT -5
gggGary: Yes 17 volts is too high, about 14 volts is max, sounds like you don't have the right regulator or it's wired wrong.
Jul 13, 2017 6:54:33 GMT -5
dean: Just saying Hello, new member who is going to fix up a 79 XS650 that has seen its better days. I will definitely have lots of questions coming up.
Jun 23, 2018 16:45:32 GMT -5
tt650: Trying to breathe life into a 1980 that's been stored (indoors) for 25 yrs. Air filters are dry rotted. Have cleaned carbs but she only runs briefly on choke then stops. Need jet setting info and other ideas that might help her idle and rev.
Jul 3, 2018 19:15:19 GMT -5
trix13: Hey everyone! New to the forum and am fighting those gremlins!! New charging system, ignition switch, coil and fuse box. Resistance is higher than normal on the ignition pick up so I'm trying to find one. No such luck yet.
Aug 16, 2018 8:50:48 GMT -5
trix13: Also, even though all of my connections are clean, I cannot seem to find out why , when at higher rpms, I hit the signals and the rpms pulse with the signals...hahah. same with the brake light. I appreciate all input!!
Aug 16, 2018 8:55:08 GMT -5
bob99: how do I post a question. I am new to the forum
Jun 6, 2019 10:52:10 GMT -5
adlpc: Hello all! Been enjoying your edifying posts and discussions - and as a fan of the XS650 since my early teenage years happy that I now own a 1980 Special which I plan to turn into a vintage half faired racer. Thank you all for being here!
Oct 1, 2019 0:58:56 GMT -5
jimothyj: Hello everyone, I just joined & wish would have known about this site in 2014 when I brought my 1974 TX650A back from the grave. I have spent a good deal of $$ and alot of time on it. Just painted it and working on electrical, I will post pics soon,
Apr 10, 2021 2:14:13 GMT -5
louisvan: trix13 - I had a problem with my 1975 SX650. When I got to highway speeds, the engine lost power. The problem was in the connectors. At a certain vibration and the wind pushing on the wiring loom, the connector lost continuity. A bad crimp to the wire.
May 20, 2021 1:19:09 GMT -5