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Post by Sparksfarmer on Jan 16, 2007 12:08:08 GMT -5
Hi All,
There are some tools we all have to have, and others we just want to have. I've been considering a wire feed welder on and off for years, but since I can stick weld, the wire feed welder never got purchased.
Well, I am again thinking about a wire feed and I thought I'd ask the members which one they use. I'm only looking for a garage version that will mostly collect dust, but must actually work when called up on. Does anyone have one from Northern Tool, or Harbor Freight or Sears? Any good stories or horror stories? Which one do you recommend from personal experience, or which one would you never buy... Please let me know.. Thanks, Sparksfarmer
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Post by mashermoto on Jan 16, 2007 12:42:36 GMT -5
Sparks, I can't offer much on recommendation, but I'm in the same boat. Harbor Freight has their small end welder that normally sells for around 180 bucks (I think), but it's usually on their sale publications for 120 bucks. I believe its a 90 amp.
I almost bought one just before Christmas, but chickened out. It's a very low end product, but like you, mine would collect more dust than anything.
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Post by eric123 on Jan 16, 2007 14:30:24 GMT -5
What do you want to weld? Brackets, structural pieces, sheet metal?
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Post by spyug on Jan 16, 2007 16:20:21 GMT -5
I have one I got from our version of H/F. It is 115v, two rating (high 70 amp/ low 65amp) light duty (15minute on high)flux core with no gas shielding. Won't do aluminum.
Its good for sheet metal and stock up to 3/16" Might do more in the hands of a skilled welder. Definitely for light duty and not designed to do structural welding as the penetration will be minimal. Good enough for shelf brackets, repairs to tools and sheet metal tacking which is how I've used it. I wouldn't risk my life on the welds so frames are out.
Beads are fairly sloppy as there is a lot of splatter. Different wire may sort this out perhaps ( or again the skill of the welder).
A good little tool to have around if expense is not a problem. For serious welding I think you'd need something running on 220v or up. Welds that may affect life and limb.......use a pro.
My 2 centimes. Spyug.
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Post by Sparksfarmer on Jan 16, 2007 19:53:14 GMT -5
Hi Everyone,
I was hoping to get something that would weld thin metal and maybe some aluminum like my gas tank. I don't want to get into the business, I just want to be able to do the thin stuff, Thanks. Sparks
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Post by mudsplasher on Jan 16, 2007 20:16:16 GMT -5
IMNSHO, you would be much better of with blue(Miller), red(Lincoln), or grey(Hobart). Hobart is essentially a lower scale Miller.
I am partial to Miller, having owned several through the years, although I have never owned a MIG unit, just TIG/stick. When I worked for Fruehauf, I used a Miller MIG for 12 hours per day, and never had any trouble with it.
Also, your lower end units will not satisfy you in the long run. You can go to the Miller or Hobart website and find a forum just like here to get any and all your questions answered.
If you are willing to put in some study and practice, your best bet would be a small inverter TIG unit. I have a Miller Maxstar 150 (for sale BTW) and it is capable of welding 22ga and thinner. This is the unit that I have built the exhausts that I have shown on this site.
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Post by eric123 on Jan 16, 2007 20:53:44 GMT -5
To have the capability to do aluminum, you're looking at $400 and up for the box, not including the bottle, etc. I do have the little HF TIG/stick welder. These little boxes will do alot more than one would think and will to sheet metal, and aluminum...
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Post by rwcfrank on Jan 16, 2007 22:00:26 GMT -5
Get the 230volt model!!!!!! I bought the 230 V model from Harbor Freight and it works really well. I can weld sheet metal and then crank up and weld 1/4 plate steel. The duty range is Low so you have to stop occasionally but it runs pretty damn well. I just plug it into the wifes dryer outlet in the garage. As with any wire feed welder and especially flux core you must treat the gun and hoses like crystal. treat them well and keep them straight without kinking and you will be very suprised at the quality of welds.
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Post by 50gary on Jan 16, 2007 22:51:46 GMT -5
Funny thing about welders they usually run best wide open. The challenge is when you turn the amperage way down to weld very light gage sheet metal and the like. The stability of the arc is easier to maintain at higher levels. I use a blue one, Miller Syncrowave 250. It's one of the best investments I've made. BTW, The welder the the machine, the "Weldor" is the man operating the machine. Nobody ever says or writes it that way though. Cheers, 50gary
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Motu
New Member
Posts: 31
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Post by Motu on Jan 16, 2007 23:31:48 GMT -5
I got caught out on that one - for years I worked with a 130amp cheap handyman MIG welder at work,it was one we got to see if these new fangled MIG welders would be any use in a workshop.So there was always a queue for the MIG,our gas plant and arc welder gathered dust.But the little cheapy job was working at max all day - so when I got a MIG welder for my own shop I went for something bigger....an Electra Beckum 200.This is a serious quality German welder,I've never had it on max as it will just blow fuses...1/4in plate is a walk in the park.But on lower setting for panel and exhaust tubing it's very touchy,just kiss a control knob and it's way off the mark.I find it very hard to get just right on sheet metal,my welds never look as good as they did with the handyman budget model.
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Post by Thorny81Special on Jan 16, 2007 23:51:23 GMT -5
if you are into fabbing steel parts, MIG Millermatic 140 (110V). For aluminum and more accurate welding go TIG. I am a poor welder, but I do know that TIG is more versitile, but more difficult and expensive. Either way. practice practice practice. aluminum is tough.
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Post by Mildmitch on Jan 17, 2007 1:11:25 GMT -5
I use a new Miller 251 MIG machine that works great but would be overkill for what you want.
Stay away from the cheap machines from HF and Costco, etc. Stay away from MIG welding with flux core wire for decent welds.
I have a Hobart Handler 120 (110v) MIG machine that is about 15 years old that has ALWAYS served me really well. Hobart was bought out by Miller as stated above. The small 110v Millers are great too for the garage shop.
You aren't going to be effective on aluminum with a mig, you'll need to step up to a TIG machine. You will pay a fair amount more than a MIG, but there are some smaller TIG's from Miller and Lincoln. These days a TIG will do more of what's expected out of a welder.
I have a Miller Dynasty DX200 TIG that is a great machine too, far more than I'm capable of using these days. These are several Thousand Dollars, but as I said, there are lower end TIG machines that would serve you well.
Just expect to pay for a good machine, whatever size you get.
Hope this helps???
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Post by 82bobber on Jan 17, 2007 8:05:11 GMT -5
Tungsten insert gas is the way to go...and a Miller, I welded jet engine parts for an airline (I am certified precious metals) I'd go with a tig for motorcycle fabrication, better precision welds using argon for cooling, I have welded trailing edges on stator vanes at 30 amps, very fine or cranked up to ~ 110 amps for penetration...got to admit I have never used a MIG gun...but would take mildmitches advice on a lower end tig welder...dust is dust right?
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Post by burge on Jan 17, 2007 9:06:25 GMT -5
More MIG feedback I had a Lincoln 115 volt that worked fine but burnt in my fire . Replaced it with a Miller Criket 115 v 20 amp an older model but picked it up at auction for $75.00 works great . A REALLY GOOD accessory is one of the electronic hoods you can see where you are starting the weld then it darkens at the flash. I tried one of the cheapies it was junk. have a miller EQC now wow what a dif. Dwayne
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Post by spyug on Jan 17, 2007 9:32:31 GMT -5
All very good comments on this thread.
I forgot to add that you should invest in a good quality auto darkening helmet as Burge suggests and it helps to have a halogen spot light on the work even in broad daylight. I find with the auto helmet you stay right on the weld point with the tip when you start and as a lot of smoke and splatter comes off the weld the spot helps you see where you are running your bead.
The other piece of advise is to run the wire feed a bit faster than you think you should. At first the tendency is to run a bit on the slow side but this causes the weld to break up making it hard to maintain a bead. Also don't advance the bead too quickly as this too will cause breaks.
As everyone says, these machines are capable of producing decent welds within their limitations but contrary to what you hear, they are not the easiest to learn straight out of the box. Practice, practice and practice some more.
Cheers, Spyug
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