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Post by jeepurze on Jul 18, 2005 19:53:13 GMT -5
WHAT THE BEST ALL AROUND BUFFING WHEEL for polishing engine parts please dont say make one i dont have time anymore , how do you know what type of pad are stationary better than hand held id dont have a problem removing parts to buff. also I got two alum rims wheels with last part haul these are great, how do i remove light scratches dings in rims theres only a couple , im thinkin of painting this maybe even spring for powder coat. thanks ![]() [/img] |
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garthh
Full Member
If it don't work, figure out something that do!!!
Posts: 111
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Post by garthh on Jul 19, 2005 0:25:57 GMT -5
gojo hand cleaner & a white scotch brite pad
maybe even green one depending how deep the scratches are, in the rims
buffers:
stationary are faster [more hp]
handheld do a better job on tight areas
so both if you have more $ than time
a electric die grinder [1/4" drive] turning #180 grit flapperwheels, will get you to the point of polishing fast & w/little chance of gouges
Garthh
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Post by gdjohnson on Jul 19, 2005 19:54:23 GMT -5
Eastwood sells an entire series of buffing supplies and buffers. I have a Makita buffer that I use mainly for paint buffing and polishing. I use a small polishing kit mounted to an electric drill for small or tight areas.
Greg
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Post by jeepurze on Jul 21, 2005 18:44:47 GMT -5
are there any books or web sites that show use of buffing compounds what there application is.
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Bevin
Full Member
Surrey, BC, Canada
Posts: 108
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Post by Bevin on Jul 23, 2005 9:06:23 GMT -5
Try www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htmA word of warning - hold on tight! I was polishing a headlight rim at work this week, I was really finished but I thought, "I wonder if I can get rid of this little rust spot on the edge..." Wham, the wheel ripped it out of my hand and it flew about 30 feet across the warehouse and I went to the ER and got 7 stitches in my finger . |
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Post by jeepurze on Jul 31, 2005 17:42:29 GMT -5
thanks bevin thats a great site ; also on the dangers maybe i better have my wife do it.
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Post by 71XS1B on Aug 15, 2005 2:47:15 GMT -5
Thanks for posting the site Bevin. Lots of good info there. This probably belongs in the Stupid Trick Section. I recently hammer-formed an alloy license plate frame, and just like you, was putting the finishing touches to it on the buffing wheel. The frame was ripped from my fingers and shot across the garage at just under the speed of light, bouncing off the wall and disappearing into the great unknown. No bodily harm, but my heart sank when I finally found the frame with a big dent in the corner from hitting the wall. I think I would have rather had my finger stitched!
Cheers, Dan
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xs650sf
Junior Member
Yamaha XS650
Posts: 81
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Post by xs650sf on Sept 24, 2005 17:21:22 GMT -5
It seems like there is quite alot of info on aluminum polishing and buffing in general on line.
However, I struggled like crazy with swirl marks and uneven results. Until someone told me to increase my polishing speed.
I stopped using my drill, and modified an angle grinder. By removing the guard, adding a spacing shim, and practicing a little, my problems were solved. Lots of RPM equals lots of heat. The metal really shines in a hurry that way.
Be warned, once you start polishing aluminum, you won't stop until you've done it all.
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xs650sf
Junior Member
Yamaha XS650
Posts: 81
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Post by xs650sf on Sept 24, 2005 17:25:14 GMT -5
Also, by using a wheel of at least ten inches, you get fewer swirl marks.
I tried the sisal reinforced wheels. They are good for removing deep oxidization, but they are really scary on the eyes and the knuckles. Sewn cotton wheels about 10" are my preference.
I also would rather use a hand held buffer, as opposed to a bench top. I think it gives me more maneuverability of the stock.
I secure most of my work to a wooden table top with sheetrock screws to hold them secure.
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