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Post by pamcopete on Jul 29, 2009 12:59:42 GMT -5
CaptDan,
Well, no. The permanent magnet alternator does not have a field winding in the rotor. It has permanent magnets instead. It is regulated by wasting the unused power in the output from the rectifier.
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Post by CaptDan on Jul 30, 2009 9:55:33 GMT -5
Ah yes. I guess I forgot the big differences in the regulators used on a electro-magnet alternator and a permanent-magnet alternator.
Thanks, Pete.
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Post by marlboroman on Aug 14, 2009 18:01:59 GMT -5
hey pete, I'm still not chraging after new brushes, new rotor, and this mod but I have a question about this mod that may be my problem...on the chrysler piece you have "from fuse or brown wire" I have the brown wire from the igntion and the brown wire from the rotor hooked to one bullet connector and plugged in for the brown on the chrysler piece? is this Wrong? if so what should I do with the brown from the rotor and the brown from the switch? right now my green wire and my brown wire with the switch on are getting the same power as my battery and I have no electrical field generating like curlys guide suggests on the first step with the feeler gauge "slap" test at all! shouldn't one of the wires to the rotor not have 12+ volts and have a ground instead? weird...... thanks pete for any help!
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Post by pamcopete on Aug 15, 2009 7:09:04 GMT -5
marlboroman,
The +12 should be coming from the brown wire on the ignition switch to one of the brushes on the rotor and to the regulator. Check for +12 on the brown wire from the ignition switch with the switch in the on position.
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Post by marlboroman on Aug 15, 2009 11:02:15 GMT -5
new test ran this morning points finger at regulator? I hooked the green wire to the the ground of the battery and it went from 13 up to 16 when i revved it up, I quickly shut it off after I saw it pass 14.5 in a hurry, but my meter will hold the highest reading in memory and it said 16.1 so according to curlys guide, it's the regulator. I built this chrysler mod but apparently is not working....For the ground on the setup I hooked it to the ground on the battery so I know it's grounded!something just isn't right on my chrysler setup.....
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Post by pamcopete on Aug 15, 2009 11:46:04 GMT -5
marlboroman, Well, earlier you said that you were not getting +12 on the brown wire to the regulator. Even though the regulator supplies a ground on the green wire to the brush, it still has to have battery to work, so measure for +12 on the brown wire going to the regulator. If the connections to the regulator are correct and you are getting +12 to the appropriate pin of the regulator, then, fortunately, the regulator is warranted, so take it back and get a new one.  The battery to the modified brush must be correct because you did the ground to the green wire test and that was OK. This is about the simpliest mod I have ever come up with...like DEAD SIMPLE.....grounded case and two wires. One wire goes to the ignition switch for +12 and the other wire goes to the green wire and the brush. |
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Post by marlboroman on Aug 15, 2009 12:22:41 GMT -5
I was thinking since the green wire test was ok maybe the regulator piece was bad. maybe it screwed it up where I had a bad rotor before. So If I get a new reg. and hook it up right, in theory, I should then get a magnetic field on my rotor and be able to do the feeler gauge "slap" test and it will work, correct?
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Post by pamcopete on Aug 15, 2009 13:53:51 GMT -5
marlboroman, Well, you said earlier that you were not getting +12 at the brown wire to the regulator. The regulator will not work if there isn't +12 on that connection. Do you have +12 on the brown wire going to the regulator as shown in this picture: The regulator will not work unless there is +12 on the brown wire conneciton as shown. |
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Post by xsleo on Aug 15, 2009 16:08:14 GMT -5
I was checking my old reg/rect parts. They all check out ok.
I found that if you hook the brown and green wires to the Chrysler regulator backwards, the fuse will blow, but not before frying the regulator. Good thing I still had my receipt. The replacement even said GP Sorensen on the front, said made in China on the back.
Works great again.
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Post by marlboroman on Aug 16, 2009 15:39:11 GMT -5
yep sure enough my reg. was cooked! went down with receipt and got a new one! 14.5Volts at 2500 rpm! FINALLY! thanks for the insight pete!
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Post by pamcopete on Aug 16, 2009 18:14:55 GMT -5
marlboroman,
Well, that's the advantage to the Chrysler regulator. It's under warranty.
The VR291 is also under warranty, but some places will not accept the dead one because the plug has been cut off.
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targis34
Full Member
'81 xs650 special stock
Posts: 186
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Post by targis34 on Sept 27, 2009 21:18:34 GMT -5
Just a quick question!
I know I need this to be grounded but will it live if I "float" the reg/rect setup. I'd like to attach it to the battery box with tie-wraps but fear vibration might kill it. What do you think?
Mike
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Post by pamcopete on Sept 30, 2009 13:06:05 GMT -5
targis34,
Well, it would be better if it was mounted firmly with screws, but as long as the case is grounded, you should be OK as far as vibration goes. You might just check it to make sure it is not overheating, because that is one of the other reasons to bolt it to the frame, heat dissipation.
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Post by xsleo on Oct 1, 2009 3:27:17 GMT -5
I used one of the regulator mount holes and one of the stock mount holes on one side of the regulator. Drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the battery box to match one of the other regulator mount holes, then ran a ground wire from that mount bolt straight to the battery negitive.
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Post by bcboy67 on Aug 12, 2010 11:51:21 GMT -5
My factory regulator was bad so I did this.
I ran into a problem where the green wire was getting so hot it was melting the solder and coming undone from the regulator post.
I tested my rotor and sure enough only 1.5 ohm between the rings.
I put a new rotor on yesterday and re-solders the green wire onto the post. Rode into work this morning and it melted the solder off before I even made it to work with the new rotor.
Possible that the bad rotor cooked my regulator? Or where else should I look for the reason why the green wire is getting so hot.
I'm using the wires and connector from my factory regulator/rectirfoier
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